Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Favorite Hair Things of 2009

This year has been great for my hair. I learned a lot about caring for it and I am happy that all the time and dedication is showing by my hairs health. I have regain love for some old things and developed love for some new things.


I can't believe that I went so long without know about coconut oil. It has worked wonders for my hair-it is so much softer. Shea butter has been a constant in my life for years and my hair still loves it. I mixed coconut oil and shea together- my hair said WOW.
The EZ comb is a great invention-I wish I would have thought of that. Buns have been an awesome protective style, this is the first time in my life wearing them and I have never depended on hair pins so much. I used to not care if I owned any at all.
Giovanni.....where have you been all my life. Most of my products just get the job done but that Tea Tree Conditioner actually made me say WOW. I never thought about using castor oil on my hair...I never knew it was good for more than...well you know.
I am finally an owner of a satin pillowcase and guess what....I am not raking little broken hairs out of the bed anymore. I even got one for my hubby. Lustrasilk is my staple deep conditioner I haven't even tried another one. Olive oil....never purchased it before I started caring for my hair. I didn't even cook with it. Now I do everything with it. Goody headbands....great for those bad hair days :)
If it wasn't for my shower comb....I would probably be bald. Detangling is not fun but that comb makes it easier. Aloe Vera gel is just great. I just need a plant now and I will feel complete. LOL

Monday, December 28, 2009

Sunday Style & Christmas Day hair

My attempt at the faux hawk


Because of the length of my hair, the "hawk" portion falls down. I want it to stick up more, I am going to work on that next time.


I liked the style and it lasted me for three days



Purity Terms


I believe that if we are armed with the right knowledge that we all can make wiser decisions that can benefit us as individuals. I have never been one to just "listen" to what people tell me, you gotta provide me with evidence. So today I came across a few contradicting YouTube video and decided to do some research on my own about the terms used to describe the purity of oils and which one is "better."

Unrefined: the oils are just that—left in their virgin state after pressing. These oils tend to be rich, robust and ‘true' in their flavors; also much richer in nutrients.
Pure Virgin: Virgin means the oil was produced by the use of physical means and no chemical treatment. The term virgin oil referring to production is different from Virgin Oil on a retail label
Refined: means that the oil has been chemically treated to neutralize strong tastes (characterized as defects) and neutralize the acid content. Refined oil is commonly regarded as lower quality than virgin oil; the retail labels extra-virgin olive oil and virgin olive oil cannot contain any refined oil.

I have used all types of Olive Oil and in my opinion....there was not a difference in my hair. Now this is specifically for my hair. There may be someone out there that can tell a difference with the different ways to press oil. It's good to know what I am and what I am not paying for.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Oil Rinse Pictorial

Hopefully this will answer a lot of questions about this treatment. This is how I do it:


Shampoo Day~Dec 2009

My cold weather regimen calls for shampooing once a month. I have noticed a big difference this month with my hair and how moisturized it felt the entire month. So now, I am going to clean off some of this build-up and try out the shampoo portion of my regimen.
Cold Weather Shampoo Routine:
  1. Pre-poo with warmed Olive Oil
  2. Shampoo with Suave Tropical Coconut Shampoo (trying to get rid of it so I can try something new)
  3. Oil Rinse with Africa's Best Ultimate Herbal Oil (I will be using Giovanni Triple Tea Tree Treat as the conditioner for this oil rinse)
  4. Final Rinse with cold water
  5. Protective Style

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(¸.•´ (¸.• tia¸.•*´¨)

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Whipped Shea Butter

I attempted to make my first batch of whipped shea butter today. Normally I just add a little oil to shea and use it that way--not whipped.
This time I actually whipped it with a mixer until it reached a thick creamy consistency. My goal was to create something both my husband and I could use on our hair and body.
I made a small batch since this is my first time. I wanted to make sure it's something we love before I make more. I mixed: Shea butter, Coconut Oil, Africa's Best Ultimate Herbal Oil, and Olive oil. Hopefully, we will know in about a week whether or not this is going to work for us.

So far, it feels nice...

Top Ten reasons NOT to go natural

I thought this was a funny video:

Monday, December 21, 2009

Regime, Regimen, Regiment

Regime: The word regime (occasionally spelled "régime") refers to a set of conditions, most often of a political nature. It may also be used synonymously with regimen, for example in the phrases "exercise regime" or "medical regime."

Regimen: a regulated course, as of diet, exercise, or manner of living, intended to preserve or restore health or to attain some result.

Regiment: A regiment is a military unit, composed of variable numbers of battalions, commanded by a Colonel.



Sunday, December 20, 2009

Co-Wash and Deep Condition

My Cold Weather Regimen calls for deep conditioning every week and shampooing once a month. This week is a co-wash week and it went like this:
→Co-wash with Giovanni Triple Tea Treat
→Rinse with warm water
→Deep Condition with Lustrasilk Shea Butter Cholesterol mix*
→Rinse with Cold Water
→Detangle and Moisturize (if my hair dries while styling) with Aloe Gro
→Seal with Shea Butter Mix**
→Protective Style
The time for this entire routine usually depends on how long I DC.


*1/2 jar of Lustrasilk Shea Butter Cholesterol
1/4c Olive Oil
5 Drops Peppermint EO
10 Drops Rosemary Oil
5 Drops Tea Tree Oil

**2 parts Shea Butter
1 part Coconut Oil
1-2tbs Sweet Almond Oil

Sunday Style: Bad Hair Day :(

Today I was supposed to rock the Cinnabun so yesterday I co-washed and put in two ponytails to stretch my hair out as the tutorial suggested. Big mistake. After using Giovanni Triple Tea Tree Treat and my shea butter mix, my hair was so soft it would not hold any style. After 30 minutes of trying I ended up doing the Southern Tease bun....I think I have found me a quick "go to style."

Today was truly a bad hair day.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

My Hair Icon

Since I was a little girl I have always admired Kelis' style and hair, especially the hair. I loved how she was so against the grain and outside of the box. So bold to wear her hair so wild, I adored that boldness.
  • When Kelis was 13 she shaved her head completely bald
  • “Kelis does not like her hair with any product beyond a leave-in conditioner. So that is one of the reasons for her healthy hair. Everything has to be very clean and hydrating and conditioning. No greases, no silicones; just really gentle hair care” -Dickey
  • Kelis was part of the inspiration behind the haircare line Hair Rules
  • Kelis doesn’t have a relaxer
  • Kelis’s natural hair color is dark brown
  • One point during her career Kelis got frustrated that people only wanted to discuss her hair
  • Being "Bossy" means to be in control of your own life
  • Kelis loves short hair and plans on going shorter.
  • Kelis was born and raised in New York, NY

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Cold Weather Regimen Update

So the original Cold Weather Regimen has been revised already....me and consistency just can't seem to get along. But I'd rather keep trying out new things to find what works over following a routine that does nothing for me.
Cleansing
Alternate between shampoos and co-washes. The winter hair is already drying to I don’t want to shampoo too often. Every week might be too much for my hair. I am only shampooing once a month.
Conditioning
Deep condition every week with Lustrasilk Olive Oil Cholesterol/Essential Oil Mix
Moisturizing
After rinsing and while hair is still damp, spray with Aloe Gro, and seal with Shea Butter/Coconut Oil mix
Special Treatments
Oil Rinse - If needed (I love these!!!)
Styling
Styles for the cold weather will consist of braids, cornrows, buns, and twists that are pinned up or styled in updos. Now that I can do roller sets, I will incorporate those as well.
Trims
Since I have been more loving towards my ends they have not given me a problem with splits and fairy knots. I am going to trim when needed - S&D!!!


Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Hair Friendly Alcohols, Yes! They do exist!

When I first started on my better hair care journey I kept hearing over and over to stay away from products that contain alcohol. But to my discovery not all alcohols are bad for your hair. Here's the scoop:

There are a such thing as "hair friendly" alcohols. They are different from the ones that are found in various finishing sprays. These hair friendly alcohols are referred to as fatty alcohols They include: cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and myristyl alcohol.

Cetyl Alcohol: is a fatty alcohol that, at room temperature, takes the form of a waxy white solid or flakes. The name cetyl derives from the whale oil (Latin: cetus) from which it was first isolated. Cetyl alcohol is used in the cosmetic industry as a surfactant in shampoos, or as an emollient,emulsifier or thickening agent in the manufacture of skin creams and lotions.

Cetearyl alcohol: a mixture of fatty alcohols, consisting predominantly of cetyl andstearyl alcohols; It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, opacifying agent, and foam boosting surfactant, as well as an aqueous and nonaqueous viscosity-increasing agent. It imparts an emollient feel to the skin and can be used in water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, and anhydrous formulations. It is commonly used in hair conditioners and other hair products; it is an emulsifying wax, made by combining fatty alcohols from vegetable sources, such as coconut alcohol. It can also be made artificially. It is used in many cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, moisturizer, emulsifier, stabilizer, opacifier as well as a carrying
agent for other ingredients. It is a substitute for making lotions if you don't have emulsifying wax as well.

Stearyl alcohol: is a substance prepared fromstearic acid by the process of catalytic hydrogenation. It is a fatty alcohol. It takes the form of white solid granules or flakes which are insoluble in water, with a melting point of 60 °C and boiling pointof 210 °C; It has a wide range of uses as an ingredient in lubricants,resins, perfumes and cosmetics. It is used as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickener in ointmentsof various sorts, and is widely used as a hair coating in shampoos and hair conditioners. Stearyl alcohol is even used as a liquid solar blanket in swimming pools by forming a molecule thick layer on the surface of the water and slowing the evaporation rate of the pool water.

Myristyl alcohol: also referred to as 1-Tetradecanol; used as an ingredient in cosmetics such as cold creams for its emollient properties.

Resources
How To Select A Moisturizing Conditioner

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(¸.•´ (¸.• tia¸.•*´¨)

Teacher Cuts Little Girl's Natural Hair

We have seen this every where but what are we going to do about it?


Congress Elementary School
5225 West Lincoln Creek Drive, Milwaukee, WI
(414) 616-530

Milwaukee Public Schools
5225 West Vliet Street
Milwaukee, WI 53208

Bunning - model inspired

I don't know what was going on with the back of her hair and I highly doubt that I have enough hair to do it any so....he's what I came up with.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Sunday Style: Da Fro

I had to tame it down a bit, I didn't want to block the view of the people sitting behind me

Friday, December 11, 2009

Cold Weather Regimen



So I think I learned a lesson.....
This is the first year that I actually made an attempt to change my regimen with the seasons. I now see that I only need two main regimens; one for warm weather and one for cold weather. The regimen that I started the following for the fall was quickly thrown to the wayside and now it's just a cold weather regimen.

The first day of winter is December 21 but I guess it really doesn't matter because it's cold already. I hate cold weather. Hate it! It's like we went from summer straight to winter.

This is the update to my regimen:
Cleansing
Alternate between shampoos and co-washes. The winter hair is already drying to I don’t want to shampoo too often. Every week might be too much for my hair.
Conditioning
Deep condition every week with LeKair Cholesterol/Rosemary Oil/Olive Oil Mix Moisturizing: After rinsing and while hair is still damp, leave a small amount of condition in the hair and apply coconut oil to the entire length with special focus on the ends.
Special Treatments
Oil Rinse - Twice a month (I love these!!!)
Styling
Styles for the cold weather will consist of braids, cornrows, buns, and twists that are pinned up or styled in updos. Now that I can do roller sets, I will incorporate those as well.
Trims
Since I have been more loving towards my ends they have not given me a problem with splits and fairy knots. I am going to trim when needed. S&D!!!

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Twist N....... Out

I altered the Twist N Curl, but not doing the "curl" part. This style started with 7 two strand twists that were done on wet. Apply some oil while taking them a loose, fluff, and GO! :)





Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Length Retention Tips

I thought about titling the post "Tips for growing" but then I read Hair Growth Myths and personally, I agree with the post. Many times I have read that product xyz caused a great amount of growth. However, there is no control (minimize the unintended influence of other variables on the same system) and the claim is usually not compared against the same time frame. Plus, when using these "miracle products" you are also paying more attention to your hair (ie moisturizing the ends, protective styling) in ways that retain length.

So these are some ways that I retained length between the months of Aug-Nov:
1. Deep Condition at least once a week for a minimum of 30 mins
2. Wear protective styles as much as possible
3. Dust ends regularly to reduce the needs for trimming more length
4. Moisturize ends before styling and whenever they are exposed
5. Keep hair protected when sleeping (bonnet or satin pillowcase)
6. Trim/file your nails before working with your hair
7. Eat a proper diet....that includes water
8. When washing, focus on cleaning your scalp.

 

1 Corinthians 11:15- But if a woman has long hair, it is her glory? For her hair is given to her for a covering.


Monday, December 7, 2009

Cones

So I was going to do some research and get the down low on "cones" but then I discovered: All About Cones!!!
I could not possibly do a better job with researching this topic.

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(¸.•´ (¸.• tia¸.•*´¨)

Ingredients to Avoid And Why

After reading on numerous blogs about ingredients to stay away I became curious. Everyone says stay away but not too many say why. I think the further along we get on our natural journey the more we leave out little details because we assume that everyone knows the basic information already. So I compiled a list of the most frequently suggested to avoid ingredients and why they are disliked. This list is by no means all inclusive but features the ingredients that seem to be the most commonly discussed in the Naptural Realm.

Mineral Oil — A petroleum derivative that is found in many moisturizers and causes severe allergic reactions. Mineral oil is a derivative of crude oil (petroleum) that is used industrially as a cutting fluid and lubricating oil. This commonly used petroleum ingredient coats the skin and hair just like plastic wrap. The skin's natural barrier is disrupted as this plastic coating inhibits its ability to breathe and absorb the Natural Moisture Factor (moisture and nutrition). The skin's ability to release toxins and wastes is impossible through this "plastic wrap," which can promote acne and other disorders. It further hinders normal skin respiration/transpiration by keeping oxygen out. This process slows down skin function and normal cell development causing the skin to prematurely age. Holding in large a mounts of moisture in the skin can "flood" the biology and may result in immature, unhealthy, sensitive skin that dries out easily. Using this is like putting a seal over your skin, or wrapping it in plastic cling film. Think on this one….we put it all over our babies! (Baby Oil is 100% mineral oil)

Parabens — (Methyl, Propyl, Butyl, and Ethyl) Widely used as cosmetic preservatives and antimicrobials, even though they are known to be toxic and a leading cause of contact dermatitis. In addition, methyl paraben combines benzoic acid with the methyl group of chemicals, which are highly toxic. These can appear on labels as p-hydroxybenzoate (or PHB) esters. Some studies have shown that parabens mimic estrogen in rodents. The chemicals also have been shown to stimulate growth of human breast-cancer cells in the lab. A University of Reading study, published in the January 2004 Journal of Applied Toxicology, found that 18 of 20 breast tumors studied contained significant concentrations of parabens.

Petrolatum — This is a very cheap jelly made from mineral oil that causes such skin problems as photosensitivity and interference with the body's own natural moisturizing mechanism, which leads to dry skin and chapping. Oddly enough, this product often creates the very conditions it claims to alleviate! A petroleum-based grease that is used industrially as a grease component. Petrolatum exhibits many of the same potentially harmful properties as mineral oil.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate — A synthetic substance primarily used in shampoos for its detergent and foam-building abilities. It can cause eye irritations, skin rashes, hair loss, dry skin and allergic reactions. It is frequently disguised in pseudo-natural cosmetics with the parenthetic explanation that it "comes from coconut." In a 1983 report on the safety of sodium lauryl sulfate, The Journal of the American College of Toxicology concluded that "studies have indicated that sodium lauryl sulfate enters and maintains residual levels in the heart, lungs and the brain from skin contact." SLS is used in testing labs as the standard ingredient to irritate skin. Used as detergents and surfactants, these closely related compounds are found in car wash soaps, garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers. This product is in 90 per cent of all shampoos and really anything that foams.

Isopropyl Alcohol — This is a solvent and denaturant (poisonous substance that changes another substances natural qualities). Isopropyl alcohol is found in hair color rinses, body rubs, hand lotions, after-shave lotions, fragrances and many other cosmetics. This petroleum-derived substance is also used in antifreeze and as a solvent in shellac. Napptural hair reacts very badly to isoalcohol and this ingredient should be avoided at ALL costs. It will dry your hair out and break it off. According to A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, inhalation or ingestion of the vapor may cause headaches, flushing, dizziness, mental depression, nausea, vomiting, narcosis and even coma.

Propylene Glycol (PG)— As a "surfactant" or wetting agent and solvent, this ingredient is actually the active component in antifreeze. There is no difference between the PG used in industry and the PG used in personal care products. It is used in industry to break down protein and cellular structure (what the skin is made of) yet is found in most forms of make-up, hair products, lotions, after-shave, deodorants, mouthwashes and toothpaste. It is also used in food processing. Because of its ability to quickly penetrate the skin, the EPA requires workers to wear protective gloves, clothing and goggles when working with this toxic substance. The Material Safety Data Sheets warn against skin contact, as PG has systemic consequences such as brain, liver and kidney abnormalities. Consumers are not protected nor is there a warning label on products such as stick deodorants, where the concentration is greater than that in most industrial applications.

DEA(dienthanolamine) MEA(monoethanolamine) TEA(methanolamine) — DEA and MEA are usually listed after another product such as lauramide DEA. They are carcinogenic and hormone disruptors. Used repeatedly, they can cause liver and kidney cancer. They are usually in products like bubble bath, hand wash, shampoos, soaps and cleansers, shower gels and body washes, basically anything that foams.

Stearalkonium chloride — This chemical is used in hair conditioners and creams. It causes allergic reactions and as it is cheap, and also used in fabric softeners, it is easier for companies to use rather than spending the money on plant based ingredients which are deemed expensive, even though the natural products really do boost hair and skin health.

And finally....cones. However those will have to be discussed in the next post.

References:
http://www.motherlove.com/faq_productstoavoid.php
http://www.nappturality.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=52:ingred-avoid&catid=34:careinfo&Itemid=30
http://www.well-women.com/chemicals.html




Sunday, December 6, 2009

Essential Oils Can Help Regrow Hair

A few months ago I came across this article in which some researchers conducted a study with essential oils and there role in hair growth. In the study 16 out of 35 patients experienced hair growth by using the essential oil blend created by the investigators. I think the results of this study are amazing and I am surprised that they have remained so quiet. Especially among the natural community. It would be great to experience growth from completely natural regimens instead of incorporating all of these products created in labs that promise growth. In the study the participants used a "blend of cedarwood (2 drops, 94 mg), lavender (3 drops, 108 mg), rosemary (3 drops, 114 mg) and thyme (2 drops, 88 mg) in a carrier oil mix of jojoba (3 mL) and grapeseed (20 mL). The placebo group used just the carrier oils. Subjects were taught to rub the oil into the bare areas of their scalp for two minutes each evening and then to wrap a warm towel around their head to enhance absorption."


To read the entire research article: Click Here
Essential Oils Can Help Regrow Hair
by Richard N. Podell, M.D.

Sunday Style: Bantu Knot Out

I've been wanting to try this style for awhile and I finally had the opportunity...I like the "big" results.

I only did three bantu knots because I didn't want it too curly. One in the front on top and two in the back on each side. I slept with the elastic head band on to have smooth edges. Here's the outcome:


Church was good today. Lesson learned: We should not run ahead or drag behind God's time. We should be walking with him.



Moisturizing and Sealing


Moisturizing your hair means to go through the steps appropriate for YOUR hair in order to properly hydrate your hair. Sealing is the process by which you lock in that hydration. There are several ways to moisturize your hair, using natural products is the best way (in my opinion). I say that because it is the best way to avoid many of the damaging chemicals that are in commercial items. The trick is to discover which way your hair likes to be moisturized.

Moisturize first
Water based products (such as a conditioner) aid in moisture retention and the water helps the penetration of the hair shaft. You want to look for products that have water (aqua) as the first ingredient and also one that is not filled with fillers (mineral oil, petroleum, etc).

Seal second
Most natural oils & butters can be used to seal your hair. The ones that seem to be favored most are Olive Oil, Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, and Almond Oil. Of course there are many others. Always choose the oil that is best for you and that your hair likes.

How is it done?
After washing, co-washing, rinsing, etc.....seperate your hair into manageable sections. Take each section one at a time and apply a small amount of your moisturizing product. Then take a small amount of the sealing oil of your choice and apply that to your hair in the same manner. All the product should go onto your hair-not the scalp. When all sections are done....style as usual.

Moisturizing and sealing do not always have to be done after cleansing. Some individuals choose do this routine nightly. This is a great way to maintain length because you are protecting your hair from breakage.

Friday, December 4, 2009

In The News: Telogen Effluvium


Hair loss caused by stress is medically termed Telogen Effluvium.

Very interesting article. Click the title above to read.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Flat Two Strand Twists

I get a lot of "How do you do that" questions about the flat twists. I thought about making a tutorial...but then I found one. This vid is exactly how I do my twists, so I hope this helps anyone trying to learn.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Length Check: Nov2009

Length Check and Comparison


From this point forward I will do roller sets (since now I know, YAY) for length comparison's

Southern Tease Bun


I attempted the Southern Tease bun on Monday but it didn't work out. However, I did end up with this:

I gave the Southern Tease another try today, it was better. I guess I needed practice.










Not Hair Related: The Muppets

I loved The Muppets when I was growing up

World AIDS Day 12.01.09



This year's theme is leadership. I admire leaders simply because of their ability to control the masses. Also, their strength is amazing. Usually a leader has to go against the grain and do things a little differently and that takes a lot of self-motivation and internal strength. A friend recently told me that "it takes a strong woman to go natural" and I agree with her 100%. That is why I consider all my naptural ladies to be dynamic leaders. So this day I challenge you to use your leadership skills to "know your status" and encourage others to "Get tested." This epidemic affects all of us and it will take all of us to do something about it. What are you going to do?

"The key to successful leadership today is influence, not authority."
-Kenneth Blanchard


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